Sunrise in Shenyang

Monday, December 17, 2007

Weekend in Shanghai

I went to Shanghai for the weekend to visit my family, and it was a weekend full of surprises. We'll start with the most dramatic one. On Friday nightin Shanghai, I went to a restauarant, and a western bar afterwards to meet some friends. It was 3 am when I took a taxi home from the bar. I got in a taxi and gave the driver directions to my grandfather's apartment. Upon our arrival, because the gas pipes were getting replaced, the taxi was only able to go so far into the neighborhood. So I got out somewhat close to the gate entrance.

As I exited my taxi and closed the door, a guy came up from behind me and started to grab me. I screamed "What do you want?" in Shanghainese, and ran around to the other side of the taxi. He looked straight at me and started walking quickly away. He was dressed all in black.

I stood shaking for a few seconds, with my heart pounding, and I started to run in the opposite direction that he went. I looked back to see him turn around and follow me. I ran around the building and to the front gate, where I found the security guard.

Me: There's a guy following me
Guard: Where do you live?
Me: In here, in the fourth quarters.
Guard: Where is your apartment?
Me: I can't remember. I can't remember the number right now.
Guard: Ok, calm down, I'll walk you to your apartment. We usually don't have people follow others in here. Do you have valuables on you?
Me: No, no valuables
Guard: I saw a car come in after your taxi. They must have followed you from where you came from. They must have seen something on you that they must have wanted.
Me: I don't know what they wanted.
Guard: Ok, just calm down, and I'll walk you until you recognize your apartment.

I was shaken to tears. I've heard that Chinese New Years is coming, and there are many poor people who don't have money for their families, and they are resorting to stealing. I just happened to be a victim, and easy one at that, because I was a lone girl coming from a Western bar in the middle of the night. I will be more careful now.

Now, we'll go back to the beginning of my journey. To go catch my flight, I left my apartment and got into a taxi and asked for Tao Xian Airport. I was caught off-guard by his greeting:

Me: Tao Xian Airport please.
Taxi driver: Do you want to take the highway?
Me: Yes, its quicker isn't it?
Taxi driver: Yes, but there are 15 yuan of tolls.
Me: No problem. I can pay it.
Taxi driver: How much in total are you willling to pay? 80 yuan?
Me: 80 yuan? Why aren't we using the meter?
Taxi driver: Well you have to help me pay for my way back because there aren't return customers.
Me: No way... (I start to get out of the taxi)
Taxi driver: Ok ok, we can negotiate
Me: 60
Taxi driver: That's too low, you have to pay me for my way back, and the 15 yuan of tolls. How about 70?
Me: 60. Let's go.
Taxi driver: 65. Just 5 more.
Me: Ok. Let's go.

I didn't expect to negotiate, but it seems the norm here to go to the airport. We did go through several toll booths, although I'm not sure if it cost 15 yuan. The meter read 40 yuan, so I'm assuming I just paid 10 yuan extra, which isn't too bad. The way back was worse.

I arrived at the Shenyang airport, and went straight to the line of taxis waiting there. As I exited out of the airport, I had guys start to follow me, soliciting me to follow them and they would give me a ride. I've heard that they are illegal taxis, who usually end up ripping you off, or even worse hurting you. I wave them off and ignore them. They continue to follow.

I ask the first taxi in line to take me to my neighborhood. He says, 80 yuan. I say no, how about 60. He refuses. I go to the second taxi. Will you take me to my neighborhood? He shakes his head. The illegal drivers are still hasseling me. I walk to the third taxi, and I tell him my destination. He says that he can't go until the two taxi's in front of him go, because they are waiting in line.

One of the illegal solicitors tells me, I'll take you home for 4o yuan. You shouldn't stand here, a lone girl like you, it doesn't look good. I turn and walk straight back to into the airport. They follow me.

I get inside and call a co-worker. I ask him what I should do. He gives me directions to a bus that I can take near my house. It costs 10 yuan. It stops within a 10 minute walk from my apartments. I find the bus, the guys start to follow me again. I ask the bus driver if I am on the right bus. He says yes, and I sigh with relief.

Sometimes, I feel so vulnerable and so alone here, more than I ever have in all my travels.

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